What actually happens
Songkran runs 13–15 April. Cities close roads, everyone carries water, and the country effectively stops for a week as people return to their home provinces.
Behind the water fights there is a religious festival: pouring water over Buddha images, cleaning houses, and paying respect to elders.
Where to be
Chiang Mai has the biggest and longest celebration — four or five days, and the moat becomes the water supply. Bangkok's Silom Road is intense and central.
If you want the ritual rather than the party, go to a temple in the morning and stay off the main roads in the afternoon.
Practical notes
Book hotels months ahead, expect transport to be slow, and put everything in a dry bag. Do not drive a scooter during Songkran.
Dress for water and expect to be soaked within ten minutes of leaving the hotel.
